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The sight of a mezzaluna left carelessly on a chill marble slab fuses dreams of domesticity with dreams of

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The sight of a mezzaluna left carelessly on a chill marble slab fuses dreams of domesticity with dreams of glamour, and leaves me unreasonably touched.Only the heavy-duty, no-jokes kitchenware delivers such atavistic thrills. We can all buy Nineties brightly coloured plastic graters by Italian designers from shops featuring grass-effect shower curtains and goldfish-design inflatable cushions. But who would choose a Dalmatian-spotted polythene chopping-board when they could have a half-ton chunk of moist, grainy wood?Serious kitchenware is all black, brown and silver; it is muted and serious and flatteringly grown-up. You can disappear into a haven of cast-iron griddles and pretend you're 50 and own an Aga, and then spend pounds 2.95 on an olive-wood spatula whose varnished grain is almost edible.Gorgeous kitchenware is all about thundering tradition come into its own. It's about wedges of tree and hunks of cast iron, about palest bevelled wood and stiff yellow bristles, about screw heads set flush against buffed wooden handles.

Such objects are too beautiful to stain with pasta sauce, and you can hardly lift the superior pans, so there seems little point in trying to cook with them. I walk around in an ecstasy buying presents of exquisite salt spoons, cleavers, flimsy Japanese fish-slices with cord loops I know all about Zyliss garlic crushers I like their hinges. I just wouldn't dream of using them.Give me two hours in a serious cookware shop and I've virtually got the munchies; I've planned a year's worth of birthday presents, and emerged blinking into the sunlight, feeling fantastically mature and lugging half a stone of cast iron.. One minute you're It, the next you're in rehab And that can be tough on a girl's sense of wellbeing Tamarillo Shrubbe-Forster has been there and been done. Here's her step- by-step, easy-to-follow advice on how to survive the ups and downs of celebrity's greasy pole.

Go on, girl, have a free one on me!I do think it's hard that the world seems to find it funny that poor Tara P-T is seeking treatment for exhaustion. Of course, I can understand it for, to ordinary people, she must seem a splendid, untouchable figure, spangled with stardust, just a little bit magical; it must be beyond their ability to imagine that such a paragon could also be vulnerable. And yes, to the outsider, the so-called "It" Girls - nothing to do with information technology, I can assure you - must seem almost immortal. But I can assure you it is not so.The life of an It girl has its own pacific stresses. One has so much to live up to, not only as the inheritor of the mantle of previous generations - Clara Bow, Wallis Simpson, Margaret, Duchess of Argyll, Princess Margaret, Jane Asher, Paula Yates, Koo Stark, Liz Hurley - but because one has set such high standards for oneself.

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